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Save $$ with Bare Root Shrubs and Trees

Many of us have tried planting small bare root trees and shrubs in the past with poor survival. There are two main reasons for these failures: the root stock was too small/young and plantings were done in late spring, when most nurseries provide bare root plants. For best results, go with at least 2nd year seedlings (taller than one foot) and plant in very early spring or late fall. While bare roots can be planted anytime, they do need time to develop a strong root system before the heat of summer.



How we care for bare root shrubs and trees while they wait for adoption.
How we care for bare root shrubs and trees while they wait for adoption.

Planting from bare root has lots of advantages!

  • Saves $$

  • Saves resources

  • Easier to plant

  • Faster growth with less root disturbance


Here are the most common questions folks have for us when planting bare root plants for the first time:


Can I plant directly in the ground in spring?

A: If your planting site stays moist through the heat of summer, you should be able to plant directly in the ground in spring (early spring is best) and have good success. If your site dries out in the heat of summer, and it isn't realistic to water at least twice weekly, you will likely have better success potting your plant and keeping it in partial shade until fall.

 

Why is fall a good time for planting woody species?

A: Plants lose moisture through their leaves, and this happens more quickly in hot, dry weather. In fall, with cooler temperatures and falling leaves, the soil is cooler and there is less moisture loss. If temps heat up and the soil dries after you plant, your new shrub or tree may drop its leaves early as a defense mechanism to conserve moisture loss.  If you notice this happen shortly after planting, water your plant once, deeply, and most likely your plant will emerge just fine in the spring.

 

If I plant now, is there anything I can do to reduce the need for watering?

A: When planting directly in the ground, you can surround your new plant with a double layer of cardboard topped with mulch, or better yet, topped with wood chips. This will help hold soil moisture and keep competition down around your new plant while it establishes. It will still need watering during prolonged hot, dry spells in its first year (and 2nd year with severe drought), but this should dramatically reduce the frequency.

 

How do I pot up my plant?

A: We recommend tilting your pot on its side and adding a large scoop of dirt on one side, then laying your bare root plant on top of the soil with a few inches of the root touching the bottom. Put a scoop of dirt on top of the plant and straighten the pot to standing. Now gently tug on the plant to pull it up until it is situated so that the natural soil line on the seedling is about two inches below the top of the pot. This method ensures all the roots are pointing toward the bottom of the pot. (Trim roots if needed to avoid looping the roots around the bottom of the pot.) Now fill soil in around your plant. Only cover the part of the seedling that was previously below the soil. Burying woody plants too deep can stunt or kill them. Lastly, add a 1/2" layer of wood chips (or mulch) on top to help hold soil moisture. Water deeply until water drains out the bottom. This helps soil settle around the roots.

 

Where should I keep my newly potted plants until time to plant out in fall?

A: Best results will be seen if your plants are in partial sun in a place where you can easily water them. Protection from deer may be necessary both now and when you plant your shrub or tree out into your landscape.

 

How long can I wait to pot up or plant out my bare root plants?

A: The sooner your plants are situated, the better growth you'll see. Each time you disturb the roots, the plants will need to recover before they recommence growing. If your order included multiple bare root plants lumped together into one pot of soil, remember that the water usage will be higher than it would be if each plant had its own pot. It's best to move them out of the group pot into the landscape or into their own pot as soon as you're able. Until transferred out of the group pot, partial/morning sun or dappled shade is best.


Want to see what we have available bare root? Here's a link to our Bare Root page: https://www.leavesforwildlife.com/bare-root

 
 
 

10 Comments


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This is such a helpful and practical guide—thank you for sharing it. I've always been curious about bare root planting but wasn't sure about the best timing or methods. The tip about potting up in partial shade until fall for drier sites is especially useful, and the detailed instructions on how to pot without disturbing the roots too much are really clear. The advice on using cardboard and mulch to retain moisture is a great low-cost hack too. On a completely different note, for anyone curious, I recently came across the resource https://mcw-apps.com/vi/. Just a neutral mention. Thanks again for these valuable tips

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Fantastic advice for budget-friendly landscaping! I run a small nursery, and keeping track of all our bare-root stock, along with pots and tools, used to be a real headache. Your point about planning ahead is so true, and it applies to knowing exactly what you have on hand. This is why we finally invested in proper asset inventory management software. Now, just like planning your shrub order, we can precisely track every item's location and status. It's a game-changer for efficiency, saving us from over-ordering and losing tools. For anyone managing physical assets, it’s as essential as choosing bare-root for value!


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